Rewaxing my waxed jacket keeps it looking pristine and gives me the same sense of satisfaction I get from shining a pair of my boots. I enjoy the process and feel like it underscores my appreciation for a thoughtfully constructed garment that’s served me well for over a decade. Maybe process isn’t the right word—it’s a small ritual.
With proper care and maintenance—and an occasional new coat of wax—waxed jackets maintain their craftsmanship and integrity a lot longer than synthetics or other modern fabrics. Allow me to wax poetic (yep) on these tried-and-true garments.
The allure lies in the longevity. Waxed canvas hasn’t changed much since its inception 300 years ago. Sailors found that ship sails more efficiently caught wind when they were wet, but this also made them too heavy. They started working oil, fat, and grease into the sails and found the coating had a wind-blocking effect. You see how this would be an opportunity for some great outerwear? It wouldn’t catch on until much later.
Fast-forward to World War I, when the British military used Barbour’s waxed canvas to make coveralls for submariners. Filson began using waxed canvas for outerwear in the 1920s and debuted its oil-finish Tin Cloth as “waterproof khaki.” Barbour first introduced a motorcycle waxed jacket, the iconic International, in 1936 but it really caught on when Steve McQueen wore it to race motorcycles during the 1964 International Six Days Trial in East Germany.
Long story not so short—waxed jackets are purpose-driven garments made of material born out of old-school ingenuity. They’ve been through plenty of iterations and used for the most rugged activities.
Some of the waxed jackets I’ve worn in the past.
When should I rewax my jacket?
My first Barbour jacket went a solid five years before I noticed it could use a rewaxing, but this was when I was living in Houston and would break it out a couple of times a year. After getting caught in a downpour in London, I realized that I should’ve rewaxed it sooner. Now that I live in New York, I give my Barbour a new coat of wax every other fall.
“Rewaxing after three to four years is a good estimate for a jacket worn in occasional rain,” says Alex Carleton, Chief Creative Officer at Filson, who spoke with me on best practices for waxed jackets. “One to two years is a good estimate for a jacket that gets wet regularly.”
The first sign that a jacket needs rewaxing is when light spots appear in areas of wear. This shows you where the wax has worn off the most and it’s where you should focus your efforts when you go to rewax.
Carleton also notes those who use their waxed jackets for workwear should pay attention to mud. Allowing mud to dry removes even more of the wax coating so you should brush it off ASAP and not let it accumulate.
What’s the right way to wax a jacket?
Make sure you have an area with enough space and where you don’t mind a bit of a mess. It’s a straightforward, relatively clean process, but still, you don’t want bits of wax mashed into a rug in your living room. I prefer to wax my jacket on a table in the backyard as a Saturday morning project after coffee.
Before waxing my jacket for the first time, pretty much everything I read said that it takes longer than you think. All of those forums were correct—it took me about three hours between setup and teardown so be patient. It’s a process.
You only need a couple of tools to rewax a jacket. For starters, get a bristle brush to prep your jacket before waxing. I use a boot brush with horse hair bristles (nylon bristles are also fine) to first take off any dirt, dust, lint or pollen. For anything more stubborn, I’ll use a clean, damp rag. If the rag isn’t clean, you run the risk of rubbing even more dirt into your jacket and the wax won’t hold.
All you need is wax, a rag, a hair dryer and patience.
I prefer to use wax from the jacket manufacturer such as Filson’s Oil Finish Wax or Barbour’s Thornproof Dressing though any wax will do. I’ve used Otterwax Fabric Dressing before and it also works well. Some wax needs to be heated before application but Filson’s wax can be applied at room temperature. Some forums suggest heating all wax before applying but Carleton advises against it. When wax is melted prior to application, it tends to soak in before it can be spread evenly and you can get dark spots where it soaked in too fast. Just be sure to get enough wax—I’m talking at least seven ounces on average—because you don’t want to run out halfway through the job.
I find it’s easiest to work in sections and usually start with the sleeves before tackling the front and back. Pay extra attention to the exterior seams to ensure no moisture seeps in. Some wax may build up and dry in the creases but just wipe it away as you go. You can use gloves but I think it’s better to apply the wax using your hands. You can feel how much wax you’re working into each area and it’s easier to determine which spots could use more wax.
After every section has a coat of fresh wax, use a heat gun or hair dryer to warm it so that it soaks into the fabric evenly and don’t concentrate the heat in one spot for too long. It’s like painting a wall with a roller brush, keep it broad and keep it moving.
You’ve done the work. Here’s how to make it last.
Once your jacket dries, you should protect the investment and properly maintain it—luckily it doesn’t require much and a little care goes a long way. Cleaning it is as easy as brushing away dirt and using a damp rag every once in a while.
Don’t use soap, detergent or any other cleaning agents, as they’ll strip the wax from the fabric and defeat the entire purpose of the garment’s existence. Admittedly, in my younger days I did once put a lightweight waxed jacket in the wash thinking how bad could it be? and used the delicate cycle. The jacket came out discolored in places where the wax came off and was stiffer in areas that managed to retain it. I had to rewax it to get a more uniform color and structure. While it isn’t completely ruined, it isn’t what it once was—lesson learned.
Also, don’t store your jacket if it’s damp. Instead, allow it to air out to ensure it’s dry. Storing a waxed jacket wet can cause mold and mildew to sprout up. Even if it hasn’t been raining or snowing, I usually keep my jacket hanging overnight to air out before putting it back in my closet.
A Step-by-Step Guide to Waxing a Jacket
Step 1
Brush off dirt, grime, and any other debris that may be on your jacket. For spots that need a little more work, use a damp rag. You want a clean and even surface so the wax can soak into the fabric.
Step 2
Apply the wax at room temperature to your jacket using your hands or the rag to work the wax into the fabric. Wipe away any wax buildup that occurs.
Step 3
Use a heat gun or hair dyer to heat your jacket so that the wax can better seep into the threads of the fabric. Continue to wipe away any excess wax as there’s only so much your jacket can absorb.
Step 4
Hang your jacket and leave it outside in the sun to dry out and continue to let the wax soak in. I leave mine in the sun for the afternoon into evening and let it dry completely outside for 24 hours or so. Don’t put it in the oven or microwave. So many commenters suggest doing so, some have tried at home, and it doesn’t go well for most. Other than a fire hazard, this liquifies the wax and causes it to run unevenly.
The Kit
Filson Tin Cloth Short Lined Cruiser Jacket
Cobbler’s Choice Co. Shoe Brush
Barbour Thornproof Dressing
Danny Perez
Commerce Editor
Danny Perez is a Commerce Editor for Popular Mechanics with a focus on men's style, gear, and home goods. Recently, he was coordinator of partnership content at another product journalism outlet. Prior to that, he was a buyer for an independent men's shop in Houston, Texas, where he learned all about what makes great products great. He enjoys thrifting for 90s Broadway tees and vintage pajama sets. His spare time is occupied by watching movies and running to impress strangers on Strava.
